Willy Chavarria sorry after Adidas shoe cultural appropriation row

US fashion designer Willy Chavarria has apologised after a shoe he created in collaboration with Adidas Originals was criticised for “cultural appropriation”.

The Oaxaca Slip-On was inspired by traditional leather sandals known as huaraches made by Indigenous artisans in Mexico.

The Mexican president was among those who spoke out against the footwear, which was reportedly made in China without consultation or credit to the communities who originated the design.

Chavarria said in a statement sent to the BBC: “I am deeply sorry that the shoe was appropriated in this design and not developed in direct and meaningful partnership with the Oaxacan community.”

Cultural appropriation is defined as “the unacknowledged or inappropriate adoption of the customs, practices, ideas, of one people or society by members of a typically more dominant people or society”.

Mexico’s President Claudia Sheinbaum told a press conference: “Big companies often take products, ideas and designs from Indigenous communities.”

She added: “We are looking at the legal part to be able to support them.”

Adidas had contacted Oaxacan officials to discuss “restitution to the people who were plagiarised”, Mexico’s deputy culture minister Marina Nunez added.

In an emailed statement, Adidas told the BBC that it “recognizes and values the cultural richness of Mexico’s Indigenous communities and the meaning of their artisanal heritage.”

“The ’Oaxaca Slip-On‘ was inspired by a design from Oaxaca, rooted in the tradition of Villa Hidalgo Yalálag. We offer a public apology and reaffirm our commitment to collaborate with Yalálag in a respectful dialogue that honors their cultural legacy.”

Promotional images of the black moulded open-toe footwear have been taken down from the brand’s social media accounts as well as Chavarria’s.

In his statement, Chavarria said he wanted “to speak from the heart about the Oaxaca slip-on I created with Adidas”.

“The intention was always to honor the powerful cultural and artistic spirit of Oaxaca and its creative communities – a place whose beauty and resistance have inspired me. The name Oaxaca is not just a word – its living culture, its people, and its history.”

He went on to say he was “deeply sorry” he did not work with the Oaxacan community on the design.

“This falls short of the respect and collaborative approach that Oaxaca, the Zapotec community of Villa Hidalgo Yalalag, and its people deserve,” he added.

“I know love is not just given – it is earned through action.”

Chavarria was Calvin Klein’s senior vice president of design until 2024 and is the founder and chief creative officer of his eponymous label.

The Associated Press reported that Adidas responded to Mexican authorities in a letter on Friday.

The company reportedly said it “deeply values the cultural wealth of Mexico’s Indigenous people and recognises the relevance” of criticisms, and requested a sit-down to talk about how to “repair the damage” to Indigenous communities.

Additional reporting by Peter Hoskins