Nearly one in three consumers in the United States and Canada have turned to thrift stores in recent years, believing their secondhand shopping habits contribute to a more sustainable and affordable world. This is especially the case amongst Gen Z, where thrifting has surged substantially in popularity, fueled by social media trends and growing economic concerns.
Take it from an avid thrift shopper herself – while thrifting offers some benefits and can be an enjoyable hobby, it’s not a perfect solution to the fast fashion crisis. The industry still contributes to overconsumption, waste and economic disparities, making it clear that sustainability requires more than just shopping secondhand.
Despite its appeal, thrifting is not the solution to the environmental effects of fast fashion or the reality that many consumers cannot afford brand new clothing. While it may seem like a reasonable alternative to conspicuous consumption, the reality of thrift culture is much more complicated.
Over the past five years, the secondhand fashion industry has grown significantly. The U.S thrift store market size reached $14.4 billion in 2023, driven largely by consumer demand for affordable clothing alternatives to fast fashion. The emergence of platforms such as Depop, Poshmark and ThredUp have made secondhand shopping more accessible than ever.
In addition to the cheap prices, sustainability is a major factor for thrift shoppers. A 2022 McKinsey report on the state of fashion highlights that consumers are increasingly looking for ways to reduce their environmental footprint, and thrifting is becoming a method to limit textile waste. However, this idea significantly overlooks some key issues in the secondhand clothing industry, such as the environmental effects of the overflow of clothing donations to developing towns.
Despite the eco-friendly picture many thrifting corporations paint, growing research has begun to reveal that thrifting may not be as sustainable as is often portrayed.
Many consumers continue to support these major chains due to the idea that they are helping the environment, when in reality, only a small percentage of donated clothes actually make it onto the shelves of a thrift store, according to EarthDay.org. The rest, which are often low-quality, unsellable items that are often from the world of fast fashion are discarded in landfills or shipped to developing countries, where they create large amounts of waste and disrupt local communities, as Analyst News has previously reported.
Countries such as Kenya, Ghana and India receive massive imports of secondhand clothing, much of which ends up in dumpsites or unintendedly washed into waterways due to a lack of proper waste management. About 40% of the clothes exported to these countries are unsellable and become waste, an analysis in the Natural Resources Journal finds. This global issue has even reached the United Nations, raising concerns about how excess clothing negatively impacts local textile industries, making it harder for domestic businesses in developing countries to thrive.
Resellers are also key players in driving up prices. The rise of online thrifting platforms has encouraged some individuals to purchase thrifted items in bulk and resell them at much higher prices, turning the simple, innocent industry of secondhand fashion into a lucrative business rather than an affordable alternative. This practice has made it harder for lower-income shoppers to access affordable clothing, which contradicts one of the original purposes of thrift stores.
The rise of online thrifting platforms has encouraged some to purchase thrifted items in bulk and resell them at much higher prices, turning secondhand fashion into a lucrative business rather than an affordable alternative.
Several thrift shoppers are expressing concerns with the rising prices in secondhand stores. Some consumers are complaining publicly on X, with one user claiming, “The prices at my local Goodwill have skyrocketed so high that it’s like shopping at a regular department store now.” Uers on other social media platforms such as Reddit are questioning the once affordable industry, with one Canadian user asking the infamous question, “When did thrift stores in Edmonton start charging full retail price for used donated items?”
Jennifer G., a teenager in Houston, Texas, shares this frustration. “I started thrifting because it was a budget-friendly way to find unique clothes,” she tells Analyst News. “But I mean, I’ve noticed that prices have gone up so much that it sometimes feels like I might as well shop at a regular store at the mall.” She pointed out that even basic items like a pair of jeans or plain navy sweater, which used to cost a few dollars, are now often priced at $20 or more, making it increasingly difficult for lower-income shoppers to find affordable clothing.
She also mentioned the role of resellers in the climbing prices. “I see people hoarding racks of clothes, clearly going to sell them online for double the price. It’s annoying because I thought thrifting was supposed to be about affordability, but it’s not anymore.” There’s been debate over the practice, as online reselling trends contribute to inflated prices, and can affect availability and affordability in-store.
If thrift culture isn’t the solution to fast fashion’s problems, then what is?
Experts suggest that sustainability doesn’t come from shopping in second-hand stores, but from reducing overall consumption. The most effective way to combat the environmental impact of fast fashion is to simply buy less, support ethical brands that prioritize fair wages, and invest in higher-quality clothes that last longer — thus eliminating the need to dispose of them in the first place.
And there needs to be more transparency within the thrift industry. Organizations must become more upfront about what truly happens to unsold clothing, and consumers should donate more responsibly to ensure that the items they give away are in good condition and actually useful.
It’s crucial for us as consumers to rethink our approach to fashion entirely, and prioritize mindful consumption over endless buying and reselling cycles. Ultimately, thrift culture can’t fix the deeply rooted issues of fast fashion. It will take a real shift in our behavior as consumers.