One of the four traditional types of fortified wine was nearly killed off by 20th Century urban development. Meet the man bringing it back from the dead.
ADVERTISEMENTUrban development has literally changed the face of the earth, and in its wake much has been destroyed or lost in the name of progress.
Green spaces yield to asphalt, agriculture – when not swept aside by industry – responds to demand, and in central Portugal a little glass of history became part of the twentieth century’s archival dust.
But in 2024, it’s on its way back.
While Port and Madeira are staples of the fortified wine market and well known even by non-drinkers, an historical wine made in boutique amounts just a few miles west of Lisbon is almost invisible to consumers. It’s called Carcavelos.
Heard of it? No? You are not alone. But this could be about to change.
From the Renaissance to Pombal
The first records of a wine actually produced in the Carcavelos region date from the 15th century. And even though the demarcated region of Carcavelos is one of the smaller Portuguese DOCs (Controlled Denomination of Origin), it wasn’t always the case.
It was in the 18th century that Carcavelos wine reached its peak, in terms of production, with major producers such as Quinta da Alagoa and Quinta do Marquês de Pombal. And it was under the almost mythical figure of Pombal – the man who rebuilt Lisbon after the 1755 earthquake – that the region gained international recognition when he specifically offered the wine made at his own villa to the English at ‘mates’ rates’. The export began and the image was well and truly raised.
But the onset of the modern era had an effect even more devastating than the phylloxera plague that destroyed huge swaths of Europe’s (and eventually most of the world’s) vineyards.
Urban development across the Greater Lisbon area ate up so much of the land that there were barely any hectares left under vine. You can see in the picture below how even the original vineyard area is flanked by multi-level apartments.
“With the Second World War, with the world crisis, and after that with a colonial war in Lisbon, in Portugal, and with urban development between Lisbon and Cascais, it took all of the place, almost all of the place,” laments Alexandre Lisboa, who spearheads the Villa Oeiras project that’s bringing Carcavelos back from the brink. An engaging and enthusiastic project manager, Lisboa stresses the importance of this initiative for the culture of the region.
“This wine and this wine region almost got forgotten for these generations. And no one remembers that this is a wine region. And that’s a sin,” he tells Euronews Culture. “We are producing wine for more than 2,000 years, and 30 or 40 years was enough to wipe away an entire culture of winemaking in this region.”
The first five hectares were replanted at the Pombal estate in 1983 and as of October 2024 there are 32 hectares growing Carcavelos wine, with more being planned next year.
“We started this project as a scientific project to understand the varieties, the technology, to study the climate, the terroir. And after that…it was a joint venture between the Ministry of Agriculture and the Municipality of Oeiras,” explains Lisboa. “And after that, we started to grow the production and to promote the wine in Portugal, but also for exportation to other countries. And now we are exporting for 15 different countries.”
Fortified Wines of Portugal
The four types of Portuguese fortified wines are Port, Madeira, Moscatel de Setubal and Carcavelos. All four are fortified with grape spirit (also known as aguardente) but they styles are markedly different.
The natural factors that affect all wine regions are different in every part of the world and it’s Carcavelos’ relationship with the moderating effects of the Atlantic Ocean that Lisboa believes makes all the difference. Elegance, he says, is the calling card.
ADVERTISEMENT“You are trying a sweet wine with a dry character. Because at the end, you have always the salt in your mouth that dries your tongue. And this is something that you are not going to find in every sweet wine, or almost in none of them. And I think it’s something that captivates the consumer.”
No Vintage
Another difference that sets Carcavelos apart is the complete absence of vintage examples. You can find incredibly old examples of Port, Moscatel de Sutubal and, especially, Madeira, there are no extant bottles of vintage Carcavelos. Everything was consumed in the 20th century, so this is where the history begins.
“We are forced also to build wine heritage for the future,” Lisboa outlines. “We are one day going to taste a Carcavelos with 100 years. And that’s our truly goal in this project.”
To help achieve this, the project has opened up to other producers.
ADVERTISEMENT“We are supporting other producers to show up, to use our facilities, our cellar, our winery, so they can bring the grapes and they can produce their wine,” he adds.
Across from the Villa sits the Marquês de Pombal Palace where the recently-held Nobre Gosto event attracted fortified wine enthusiasts from all over the country and beyond. Carcavelos wines from Villa Oeiras took centre stage.
The refined, silky, Carcavelos has been rescued from the brink of extinction and it tastes smashing with its honeyed, cooked fruit and promised salinity. A unique fortified offering from coastal Portugal that is certain to make history to replace the one that time erased.